Cowboy Hat Styles: A Guide to Classic and Modern Western Headwear
Cowboy hats are an iconic symbol of the American West, with a rich history dating back to the 19th century. These hats are not only functional, protecting cowboys from the sun and rain, but also serve as a fashion statement. Over time, various styles of cowboy hats have emerged, each with its own unique characteristics and charm.
Classic Cowboy Hat Styles
The Cattleman
The Cattleman is the most traditional and recognizable cowboy hat style. It features a tall crown, typically with three creases, and a wide, slightly curled brim. This style is often associated with the classic image of the American cowboy and originated with ranch owners who wanted to distinguish themselves from rodeo cowboys.
The Gambler
The Gambler, also known as the "Gus" hat or "pinch front", has a lower crown with a distinctive pinched or V-shaped crease on the front. It features a wide, flat brim and a rounded crown. This style was popularized in old Western films and is considered one of the most stylish cowboy hat designs.
The Brick
The Brick style cowboy hat has a square, flat crown with a rectangular crease on top, similar to the Cattleman but with a more structured, boxy appearance. It is named after its resemblance to a brick and is also known as the "Canadian crease".
The Gus
The Gus style, named after the character Augustus McCrae from "Lonesome Dove," has a sloped crown with a dent on each side of the main center crease. The crown is taller in the back than the front, creating a dramatic silhouette.
The Tom Mix
The Tom Mix style, also called the "Ten-Gallon Hat", is an exaggerated version of the Gus style, featuring an even taller and more dramatic sloped crown. It was popularized by the famous cowboy actor Tom Mix and is often seen in movies and rodeos as a bold statement piece.
The Open Crown
The Open Crown style, also known as the "Boss of the Plains", has a smooth, rounded crown without any creases or dimples. It was one of the earliest cowboy hat styles popularized by Stetson in the late 19th century and offers a minimalist, elegant look.
Brim Styles
Cowboy hats feature various brim styles that serve both functional and aesthetic purposes:
Cattleman Brim
The cattleman brim is a classic style featuring a wide, gently curved brim around 4 inches wide that provides ample shade and protection.
Gambler/Pinch Front Brim
This style has a distinctive pinched front brim, usually 3-3.5 inches wide, with one side often slightly rolled for an asymmetrical look.
Brick Brim
The brick brim is similar to the cattleman but with a slightly squarer, more rectangular shape while maintaining the wide, curved style.
Resistol Brim
Named after the Resistol brand, this brim is narrower at 3-3.5 inches and has a more tapered, rounded shape.
Ten Gallon Brim
The ten gallon brim is an exaggerated, dramatically wide style over 6 inches wide seen in movies and rodeos.
Open Brim
A simple, rounded brim without curves or pinches, the open brim is one of the most basic styles.
Cowboy Hat Styles for Women
Popular cowgirl hat styles include:
Cattleman Crease
A feminine take on the classic with a softened tall crown, center crease and side dents.
Pinch Front/Teardrop Crease
The distinctive pinched front creates a flattering, heart-shaped silhouette for women.
Gus Crease
The boldly sloped Gus crown makes a statement with Old West flair.
Open Crown
The simple rounded crown provides an elegant blank canvas for custom shaping.
Women's hats often feature bright colors, decorative bands and bows, and narrower front brims. Materials include leather, straw and felt.
Cowboy Hat Styles for Men
Classic styles for men include:
Cattleman
The traditional tall crown with creases and wide, curved brim, designed for ranch work.
Brick
A structured, squared crown with a rectangular top crease, a variation on the Cattleman.
Gambler/Pinch Front
The pinched front crown creates a stylish teardrop shape with a wide, flat brim.
Gus
The dramatically sloped Gus crown with a front-to-back crease makes a bold statement.
Tom Mix/Ten Gallon
An oversized, extra tall Gus crown for a rodeo-ready look straight out of the movies.
Open Crown
The creaseless rounded crown, one of the original Stetson designs, offers a minimal aesthetic.
Men's hats also vary by brim style, material, and optional features like bands, straps and venting.
Cowboy Hat Styles for Children
Kids' cowboy hats capture the Western spirit with age-appropriate designs:
Faux Suede/Felt
Classic styles mimicking adult hats, with rounded crowns and wide brims.
Straw
Lightweight, breathable hats perfect for outdoor play, in solid colors or with fun prints.
Character/Novelty
Playful hats featuring popular characters, bright colors and patterns.
Toddler/Infant
Miniature hats with simplified designs and smaller sizes for the littlest cowboys and cowgirls.
Brand Name
Kid-sized collections from renowned brands like Stetson, Resistol, Charlie 1 Horse and Ariat.
While prioritizing fun over function, children's cowboy hats still embrace the iconic silhouettes and style of the American West.
Choosing the Right Cowboy Hat
When selecting a cowboy hat, consider your face shape, personal style, and intended use. A wider brim may suit those with a round face, while a taller crown can elongate a shorter face. If you plan to wear your hat for practical purposes, such as ranch work, opt for a durable material like felt or straw.
Cowboy hat brands like Stetson, Resistol, and American Hat Makers are renowned for their quality and craftsmanship. The "X" rating system (e.g., 20X, 100X) indicates the amount of fur used in the hat, with higher numbers signifying better quality. Additionally, hat bands, sweat liners, chin straps, and venting are popular optional additions to personalize cowboy hats.
Remember, a well-chosen cowboy hat not only serves a functional purpose but also makes a bold fashion statement. Whether you prefer a classic style or a modern twist, there's a cowboy hat out there for everyone.
Richard Sutherland
RichardSutherland@bitsnspurs.orgRichard is a western lifestyle author for Bits N' Spurs, the weekly newsletter that keeps pace with today's rodeo. His articles are featured on dozens of rodeo and Western related websites and provide a window to the world of cowboy culture.